Raised garden beds can be easily constructed with garden bed kits, but sadly, a lot of them use too-thin wood. For that reason, we’re providing you with a comprehensive guide that will show you how to construct a raised garden bed in ten simple steps using materials from your neighborhood home improvement store.

This guide explains how to purchase the lumber and equipment required to build a garden bed that is four feet wide by eight feet long by one foot deep. It also explains how to adapt the lumber to fit garden beds of varying sizes and explains the benefits of using untreated wood. Additionally, this article helps you get started with soil, which is essential for growing a vegetable garden.

Using a garden bed kit is a risky option if you’d prefer not put in a lot of effort on your DIY project. They are available in a variety of sizes and materials. However, continue reading for a personalized garden bed that may be altered to suit your requirements and the design of your garden area!

In this article:

How to locate the appropriate equipment and supplies

Building a raised garden bed: 10 steps

Simpler methods for joining boards

Setting up your raised garden bed’s location

Putting the seeds and dirt in

Various garden bed sizes

FAQ

Appropriate equipment and supplies

The dimensions of the raised garden bed we’re making in this lesson are 4 feet wide by 8 feet long by 1 foot deep. For a bed this size, the equipment and supplies we list are appropriate.

One foot, or twelve inches, will be the depth. The majority of lumber is 6 inches tall. Two boards will be stacked on top of one another and secured together by framing angles on both ends in order to reach a depth of one foot.

Equipment and supplies required:

Untreated wood that is strong and long-lasting. The greatest option is cedar.

• Angles of framingx
• Hex screws
• Cleaners
• Nuts
• Perform a drill
• Drill bits
• A tape measure
• A pencil
• Wren or bolt tightener
• Square framing

Some of these equipment, such as a pencil, tape measure, and wrench, may already be in your toolbox. Any goods you are missing are readily available at your neighborhood hardware shop or online from stores like Amazon, Lowe’s, and Home Depot. We’ll then go into more detail about what to look for while purchasing the products on this list.

Untreated wood that is strong and long-lasting

The greatest option is cedar. The conventional dimensions of lumber are 2 inches thick, 6 inches tall, and 8 feet long, or 2″ x 6″ x 8′. In the event that you buy wood from a lumber yard, the measurements could vary.

Select untreated wood, which is easily found at your neighborhood home improvement store. Chemicals used to treat pressure-treated wood can seep into your soil and your valuable produce. The risks are the same for painted wood.

Because they are strong and long-lasting, untreated cedar boards are a wise option. They will endure for ten to fifteen years and are resistant to rot. Despite being the cheapest wood, pine only lasts a few years. Redwood and locust are more resistant to decay. Boards should be at least two inches thick, if not thicker. Generally speaking, thicker boards are more durable.

Where to get untreated wood planks that are two inches thick:

• Lowe’s: Cedar Rough Air Dried Lumber, 2-in x 6-in x 8-ft
• Home Depot: two inches. x 6 in. Better Prime Douglas Fir Board and x 10 ft. #2
• Home Depot: two inches. x 6 in. 92-5/8 in. Whitewood Stud Prime Kiln Dried

Angles of framing

Purchase four 12-inch-long framing angles. These will join the planks to form your garden bed’s sides or walls. In order to attach two boards perpendicular to one another, choose framing angles that are tall enough.

Where can I locate framing angles of 12 inches?

• Rok Hardware: Single 12-inch Heavy Duty Metal Corner Bracket with Right Angle Structural Brace, 18 Gauge
• Home Depot: 1½ inches. x 12 inches. Slotted Angle Plated in Zinc
• Stanley Hardware 182741, 1.5 x 12 In., 14 Gauge Steel Slot Angle, Walmart.

Hex screws

Buy screws that are 2.5 inches long. For a smaller box, you’ll need sixteen, and for a larger box, twenty-four. Screws should be fully threaded, meaning the threads should extend all the way to the screw head, and they should fit into the holes of the framing angles.

For shorter beds, you can use two hex screws on each end, for a total of four screws per board. Three hex screws on each end, for a total of six per board, can be utilized for larger beds.

Nuts and washers

You should get 0.25-inch nuts and washers. You will purchase the same quantity of nuts and washers. To make sure everything fits, align the screws with the nuts and washers and test them. For a smaller box, you will need sixteen, and for a larger box, twenty-four.

In order to avoid contaminating vegetables and other edible plants, choose nuts, washers, and hex screws that are composed of food-grade materials, such as stainless steel.

Drill bits

Make use of drill bits that are 0.25 inches or, better yet, a bit bigger.

Building a Raised Bed Garden

After gathering your equipment and supplies, let’s get started building your raised bed for vegetables and flowers.

Step 1: Cut the boards

Choose how long you would want your raised garden box to be. We go into how many boards you’ll need and how to cut them for raised vegetable beds of various sizes later in this post.

Since the goal of this guide is to make a 4′ x 8′ x 1′ box, buy six 2′ x 6′ x 8′ boards. Get two of them cut to four feet by the retailer. Alternatively, you can cut the boards yourself if you have a mitre saw, table saw, or circular saw. If you’ve never used a saw before, don’t try it for your own safety.

Choose damage-free, straight boards. Steer clear of boards with chips and cracks. Make sure the boards are at least two inches thick, or as thick as feasible. In raised garden beds, thin boards don’t endure very long.

Step 2: Verify the framing angles’ dimensions

Make use of 12-inch framing angles. Verify that the framing angles are sufficient to join the boards. To ensure it fits over both boards, lay them side by side and position the angle across them.

Step 3: Determine the planks’ thickness

Typically, lumber is thinner than what retail establishments advertise. Measuring the boards’ thickness is the next stage. To create a straight line, mark that thickness on both ends of each board. This is where one board’s end will touch the other board’s end. Additionally, that is where the 4-foot boards’ framing angle will be positioned. The inside of the bed will be the side that has the line drawn across it.

Step 4: Make holes in planks that are 4 feet long

Two 4-foot boards at a time, align them. Mark the desired number of holes and place the framing angle’s edge on the line you created and across the two boards. The boards will be joined via the holes. The number of holes you designate will therefore correspond to the number of screws you wish to use to fasten the boards together.

Keep in mind that each hole will require a certain number of hex screws, washers, and nuts. Ensure that every board has a minimum of one hole.

To ensure that everything lines up precisely when you drill, measure your marks a few times. Drill a hole where you marked once you are satisfied with your dimensions.

Step 5: Use framing angles to join 4-foot boards

Once more, arrange two 4-foot planks side by side so that a single framing angle crosses both boards. Position the framing angle on both boards, aligning its edge with the line you created.

Once the boards and the framing angle are lined up, use the hex screws, washers, and nuts to fasten the framing angle to the ends of the boards. Make sure the hex screws are on the outside. The nuts and washers are placed within.

Repeat similar procedures with the remaining two 4-foot planks laid side by side. Two sets of four-foot boards with framing angles at the ends will be available to you. These are the sides or walls that comprise your bed’s breadth.

Step 6: Make holes in planks that are 8 feet long

After attaching the 4-foot boards to the framing angle, position two of the 8-foot boards flush against it. These boards will either be vertically perpendicular to one of the sides you just constructed, or they will extend into the air.

On the two vertical boards, mark holes. The holes have to line up with the framing angle’s holes. If you don’t have someone to hold the boards while you mark the holes, you might have to work on one board at a time.

After removing the vertical boards, drill holes where you indicated.

Step 7: Create a corner by joining boards

Using the screws, washers, and nuts, fasten the two 8-foot boards to the framing angle. You have now put together one corner of your garden box.

Step 8: Do it again for the second corner

On the opposite end of the garden bed wall, repeat steps 6 and 7. Now that you have two corners of your raised garden bed put together, the construction will resemble the letter “U.”

Make sure both corners are at a 90-degree angle by using a framing square.

Step 9: Fasten the final side

To finish your raised garden box, lay the U-shaped construction down so that the last wall may be attached.

Align the long 8-foot wood boards with the other 4-foot wall by sliding it in. Make sure that the holes in the boards match the holes in the long boards. Where indicated, drill. Use the screws, washers, and nuts to attach the last wall to the long wood planks.

And voila! You have now finished assembling a rectangle raised garden bed.

Step 10: Secure the fasteners

Get a bolt tightener and tighten each bolt if the raised garden bed meets your requirements and you’re prepared to use it.

Move the box to the desired spot if you didn’t build it in the ultimate resting place. You have constructed and now possess your own raised garden bed.

Simpler methods for joining boards

Using planter blocks or raised bed corners are two ways to simplify your build. For a simpler method of attaching the boards and creating the corners, homeowners might purchase raised bed corners rather than framing angles. A typical board that is 2 inches thick can accommodate most raised bed corners. To be certain, measure the corners’ thickness. Planter blocks are another option.

Screws without framing angles: Another option for fastening the boards is to use screws without framing angles. Although this kind of build is comparable to what is covered in the previous sections, the materials and procedure are different. When creating a raised garden bed that is only 6 inches tall—that is, one board high—you can utilize this technique.

 Using this strategy, you won’t stack two boards to produce a one-foot depth. Here are some further distinctions between the method that does not require frame angles and the method that was previously explained in detail. If utilizing this method, make any necessary adjustments to the above steps.

The kind of materials utilized will vary, such as the size of the drill bits and the kind of screws used. Each plank has two holes punched into its end. The holes must line properly since each board will overlap the end of the board to which it is being attached. The planks are fastened together with deck screws. To keep the boards steady when you screw them in, you’ll probably need a second set of hands.

Because it is more difficult to ensure that the holes line up precisely so that the planks connect correctly, this approach allows for more human error.

Thrifty tip: You may repurpose materials like plastic crates or even wooden bookshelves for an even simpler and less expensive design. Learn more and feel motivated to reduce, reuse, and recycle by looking at these do-it-yourself raised garden bed ideas!

Setting up your raised garden bed’s location

To guarantee good plants, you must prepare a space for the raised garden bed after building the real construction. To get a space ready for your raised bed, follow these steps:

• Pick a good spot: Pick an area where the plants will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day.
• Level the floor: Set up your bed on a level, even surface. Digging up the earth will lower high locations, and adding additional soil will elevate low spots until the target area is level. Verify that the slope permits adequate soil drainage.
• Use landscape fabric or hardware cloth to line the bottom of the bed. Landscape fabric acts as a barrier between the ground and the dirt you add to the bed. It prevents the growth of grass and weeds in the bed. Water can also pass through and drain through it. The weed barrier can be fastened with staples or landscape fabric pegs.

Putting the seeds and dirt

You can now add any soil amendments you need for improved plant health and fill your bed with the soil of your choice. Finding out how much soil you’ll need to fill your bed is the first step.

All measurements should be in the same unit so that you can calculate the raised bed’s volume in cubic feet. To determine how much soil to add, use this formula:

• Length x Width x Height equals Volume
• A raised bed of four feet by eight feet by one foot has a volume of thirty-two cubic feet. Therefore, 32 cubic feet of soil are needed for the raised garden bed in this lesson.
• To account for soil settling and future top-offs, purchase a bit more soil than is required.

Properly mix your topsoil

The ideal soil is rich in organic materials. For best results, fill your bed with a mix of topsoil and compost. Learn about the precise soil requirements of the plants you are growing, such as whether they prefer a loose or dense soil, which plant nutrients they require more of, and what pH the soil should have. To address these particular requirements, you can supplement the topsoil in your bed with soil additives.

Compost:soil ratios vary depending on the plant.

Nonetheless, the ideal mix for vegetable gardens usually consists of:

• 30% of the material is compost.
• 60% topsoil
• Ten percent potting mix

Compost can be purchased from any garden store or made yourself. Additionally, you can buy topsoil online or at your neighborhood garden supply store. The price of topsoil ranges from $10 to $50 per cubic yard. Depending on the quality and where we purchased it, dirt for our 32-cubic-foot (1.2-cubic-yard) bed would cost anywhere from $12 to $60.

Fill your raised garden bed with soil until it reaches the top. The dirt will level out. If needed, add compost on top.

At the end of the growth season (fall or winter), more compost will be required.

Plant seeds

After preparing your soil, place your seeds far enough apart to allow for growth. When placing taller plants in beds with shorter ones, make sure the taller plants don’t obstruct the sunlight. Certain plants may require trellises, plant stakes, or tomato cages for support as they grow. To prevent animals from eating your plants, you might wish to use bird netting.

After planting your flowers, vegetables, and fruits, mulch the area to keep moisture and weeds at bay. Make sure the grass hasn’t been exposed to any chemicals, such as pesticides, weed killers, or feed additives, before using grass clippings.

Various garden bed sizes

Now that you know how to construct a 4′ x 8′ x 1′ do-it-yourself raised garden bed, you may adapt it to create other sizes. A number of boxes can be constructed. Homeowners can plant crop families in their own boxes by using multiple short boxes.

The following are some sizes and adjustments you may want to think about:

• 4 feet x 4 feet x 1 foot: Because the length (long sides) and width are both 4 feet, this garden box will be square. Buy four 2″ x 6″ x 8′ planks for a bed this size. Cut the four boards in half, or have the retailer do it for you. Make use of 10-inch-long angles.
• The dimensions of 2 feet by 6 feet by 1 foot are perfect for a small garden area. Get four 2″ x 6″ x 8′ boards to get this size. Each board should have two feet chopped off. This provides you with four two-foot-long planks for the garden bed’s wall width and four six-foot-long boards for the garden bed’s long side. Make sure to choose 12-inch framing angles.
• 4 feet x 4 feet x 6 inches: This is the perfect size if you’re certain you don’t need the additional depth because you’re simply planting crops with shallow roots, like cilantro and radishes. Purchase a pair of 2″ x 6″ x 8″ boards. Cut every board to four feet. You only need 4-inch framing angles because you won’t be stacking the two boards. Use 1-inch hex screws 16–24.
• Avoid pressure-treated lumber for your health and safety.
• Wood may decay if it comes into contact with the ground or excessive dampness. In order to extend its lifespan, pressure-treated wood has undergone a process that involves applying preservative chemicals to the wood. But the toxins from pressure-treated wood, including CCA-treated wood, can seep into your produce, fruits, and soil.
• Chromatized copper arsenated is referred to as CCA. Because CCA-treated wood poses a danger of exposure to pollutants like arsenic, the EPA has limited its usage. Thankfully, by the end of 2003, wood treated with any arsenic-containing preservatives was to be phased out. As a result, home centers’ pressure-treated wood is probably not CCA-treated.
• It is more likely that they will be treated with ACQ or another chemical. Alkaline copper quaternary ammonia is known as ACQ. It contains no compounds the EPA deems hazardous, arsenic, or chromium. It does contain more copper than CCA, though, and some of that copper will seep into your soil from wood treated with ACQ.
• Your best option is untreated wood. Of course, it’s up to you. However, why subject yourself to needless chemicals if you are making the effort to raise your own fruits and vegetables for health reasons? Untreated wood is safer for growing food plants, but it might not last as long as wood treated with CCA or other chemicals.

Examples of wood that resist deterioration naturally include the following:

• The Redwood
• Eastern or Western Red Cedar
• White oak
• White cedar from the North

FAQ regarding the construction of raised garden beds

Which vegetables and fruits can be grown in a 6-inch-deep bed?

The following are a few crops with shallow roots that require just 6 inches of soil:

• Spinach
• A strawberry
• Dill
• Parsley
• Basil
• Oregano

Which vegetables and fruits require 12 inches of depth to grow?

Anything that thrives in soil that is 6 inches deep can also thrive in soil that is deeper than 6 inches. Generally speaking, anything that requires a minimum soil depth can grow at least that deep. Therefore, it’s recommended to have 12 to 18 inches of soil depth overall if you’re unsure of what you want to produce.

The following edibles need a minimum of 12 inches of soil depth:

• Cucumbers
• Kale
• Beets
• Carrots
• Garlic
• The cauliflower

Which foods require a soil depth of 18 inches?

Certain plants, such as the following, require at least 18 inches of soil due to their deep root systems:

• A watermelon
• The tomato
• The eggplant
• Peppers

Which raised garden bed made of cedar is the least expensive to construct?

Because it requires less materials, a smaller box will be less expensive. A garden bed that is 4′ x 4′ x 6″ would be less expensive than one that is 4′ x 4′ x 1′ or any of the other sizes covered in this article.

Remember that price varies depending on a number of things, such as the kind of materials used for the raised garden bed. Although it is less expensive, building a garden bed out of pine is not advised because it will not last. Because cedar is long-lasting, resilient to decay and insects, and more costly, it will provide you with greater value for your money.

When to seek out landscaping assistance?

Now is the perfect time to plant your veggie garden. Who knows? You can end up being the local farmer in your area. If not, you’ll at least have the assurance that you know exactly what you’re consuming and how it was produced.

And Lawn Love is here to help if you ever need assistance growing delectable fruits and vegetables for your loved ones! You may quickly get in touch with local, insured, and licensed gardening services online or over the phone with our helpful, kind customer support staff.